Full-radial construction ensures panels are lined up with loads. Generally these sails are better suited to deeper wind angles as their larger area and Full Shoulders make sailing tight reaching angles difficult on anything but the lighter wind days.

If you've been put off spinnakers by witnessing or experiencing wraps, broaches and assorted mishaps, take heart. By following a few simple rules and not trying anything too ambitious, you'll find it's all pretty simple! And you'll be amazed at how much faster, steadier and more enjoyable your downwind sailing becomes. As a rule, the second option is safer because you hoist in the lee of the genoa.

As for the rest of the equipment, on most boats you just need a pair of sheets ideally tied onto the Sail's Clew corner and one Tack Line - with a substantial Block for turning each line One on the Bow right forward and two on the aft Quarters.

The Tack Line ideally will have a Snap Shackle to attach to the Tack ring and allows easy release in an emergency, and of course the Halyard itself. Ensure the sheets are led outside everything and that the 'lazy' sheet goes around infront of the Forestay. Put the boat onto a Broad Reach and with all the lines set up ready hoist the sail.

If you have a genoa set then roll it up afterwards - as the wind shadow will help you fully hoist the sail before it sets. As soon as the halyard reaches the Top sheet on the Leeward sheet and check that the sail has filled correctly. Roll away the Genoa if necessary and trim the sail essentially like a Genoa, but easing until the Luff just curls and the trimming back on. What are the options for sails?

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To avoid this, we shape our Furling Mainsails a little flatter and build them with a hollow roach. Kemp Sails only make In-Mast Furling Mainsails from stiffer Yarn-Tempered Polyester or a High-Modulus material, that resists stretch and wrinkling. The Foot and Leech of Furling Mainsails can come under a great deal more stress than ordinary sails, which is why Kemp Sails also reinforce these edges with a specially created Kevlar Tape. Adding Short Leech Battens to an In-Mast Furling Mainsail, allows us to support a straighter Leech profile.

This maintains more of the sail area which would otherwise have to be 'hollowed out' without the use of battens, therefore improving Light Airs Performance. The use of battens also helps control the Leech and reduces the potential for vibration and flutter. The Vertimax In-Mast Mainsail Reefing system accomplishes that simple function which many other battened In-Mast Reefing sails absolutely fail to achieve, and that is: The reasons for this are simple — and two fold:.

Firstly, Kemp Sails recognise that space is at a premium in most Mainsail Furling mast chambers and therefore the batten configuration is critical. Kemp Sails use 4 Full Length Vertical Leech battens to support the increased Roach Area, placed to be as accurately aligned as possible when furled.

Secondly, the life of such sails is largely governed by the quality of the fabric used in the manufacture, so Kemp Sails only offer these sails in one of 3 options: Kemp Sails are always happy to talk about Vertimax and other In-Mast Sail systems and recommend the best solution for your In-Mast Furling Mainsail.

Selden's Linedrive operated Furling masts have asymmetric tensioned luffspars.

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Many other Furling Masts do not have not tensioned Luff spars and so they require extra care and vigilance in use and to get the best operation from them. Adjust the outhaul to give the correct sail camber for the conditions. Secure both ends tightly. Slacken the outhaul again and repeat. The sail would then unroll completely.

Choosing the right fabric in the first place is probably the most important decision in getting the best from your sails. Kemp Sails put sail fabric choice right at the forefront of our discussions with potential customers and we are always happy to supply samples of the fabrics we are recommending. It's fair to say that in recent years we would send fabric swatches out as a matter of course with all our quotes - though with the email revolution and rising postage costs we now tend to attach fabric data for speed - but please don't hesitate to ask!

In fact that is the most important sentiment we could make here - simply to 'ask us! All of the above have websites with more detailed information on their fabrics and in many cases data sheets on their specific styles. Largely speaking we stick to using materials from these suppliers, as they hold stocks and they produce consistent material which is reliable in quality; ie.

There are more fabrics becoming available from Asia and the Far East now but these Main companies have specialised in their fabrics and will stand by the products if there ever any problems, so we prefer to stick with them. Most of us have sailed with a Spinnaker or Cruising Chute at some time and you may remember the sail is flying unsupported from the spars, hence occasionally the sail will fill and collapse.

Often this can be be with quite a 'pop' and for this reason as Sailmakers we want the sail to absorb some of that 'shock' and so we choose a slightly forgiving fabric. So, we usually choose Nylon as it has a little more elasticity as a fibre and it's usually woven in a form these days that we call Ripstop.

Which means it has a square weave pattern that is formed by periodically twisting a few fibre together to increase tear strength, or occasionally by added a larger fibre into the weave at even spaces.

So, Nylon Downwind sail fabric is very light, a little stretchy and surprisingly strong Most importantly these materials are available in attractive colours so you can personalise your sail and keep the crew entertained! Because the lightest material comes at the expensive of some durability and tear resistance if the sail handling isn't quite as slick as you had planned for! There are also heavier weights of Downwind sail fabrics for bigger yachts and for racing sails there are lighter ones.

If you would like some more detailed information then you know what to do! Upwind Sail Fabrics are more complex and since there are more variations in weight and factors of construction to consider we'll again try to make a Layman's guide. More detailed or specific questions can be answered individually It's well accepted that Woven Sailcloth lasts longer that Laminated Sailcloth in terms if its 'Terminal Durability' i.

After all we don't usually wear our clothes until they fall off us - So, when a sail has stretched beyond an acceptable point that is the end of it's Performance life. To examine what this is for each fabric option we need to understand what each option actually is. Weaving looms have made enormous technical leaps in speed and consistency but the basic Sailcloth weaving principle remains the same since the first ever looms. Woven styles are made up from differing weights of finished fabric and the fibre size construction determines the weight and stability read stretch resistance!

The more tightly woven the material, the more stable it will be and thus the longer your sails will hold the shape that you sail maker designed them to have.

So, to understand what aspects make the difference Very basically, what happens is that a huge rack of thread spools are wound onto a big straight pole called a 'Beam'.

These form the fibres that run the length of the finished roll and they are called the Warp threads. Thus the Warp Beam is fundamentally at the heart of any woven fabric style and often one Warp beam will be used for creating several styles or weights of material. The quality of the fibre used for this beam is determined by it's tenacity strength and it's pre-weaving preparation. The Warp beam fibres are tyed-in or drawn into the weaving loom and are pulled through under some tension.

There are four principle operations:.

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Now we have a roll of raw cloth roll that is woven as tightly as the size of the fibres allow and as the loom could pack it all in Bigger fibres are also stronger, but they don't weave in so tightly. The natural cloth at this stage would be very 'soft' and stretchy - particularly on the 'bias'- and to see roughly what it looks like at this stage you may find some in some yacht sails - usually if you have a 'lens foot', which is soft stretchy panel in the very bottom of some sails where it attaches to the boom.

If you pull most non-sailcloth woven fabrics in this way you will see a surprising result and a big crease! If that happens with your sail it's not good! Since sail loads go all over the place especially when you part Furl or Reef them we need this bias to be stabilised and locked up.

Hence, the natural cloth will have to undergo at least two more basic processes and often several more in terms and washing and dying to become usable Woven Sailcloth. The fabric will of course be rolled onto smaller more manageable rolls and is inspected and any flaws broken fibres marked or cut out. What type of fibres are used? So, we can see that any woven material that Kemp Sails recommends for you will be judged on it's fibre quality for consistency, strength and shrinkage qualities, and also the way it wears in UV as lesser quality fibres degrade more quickly in the harsh UV light.

Over the years Sailcloth manufacturers have tried all the fibres names that you have ever heard of and the best combination of strength performance taking into account the basic costwear longevity in both UV light and in flex durability, and fibre shrinkage which helps and water absorption which doesn't!

It isn't necessarily the best fibre in any one particular aspect - but it's by far the best right across the board So usually we recommend a fabric that employs a top quality, High Tenacity Polyester.

Then we look at the weave quality and the stability that is achieved in the fabric before it is fluttered a simulated test of the wear sailcloth gets and then afterwards. This tells us how well the fabric can rely on it's initial weave quality and also how much it relies on the subsequent resin impregnation to hold it all together.

Remember resin coating isn't necessarily a bad thing, some top quality racing woven fabrics are heavily coated and stiff to feel, so this aspect is often wrongly stated To judge and compare a fabric feel it yourself in your fingers and crinkle it up in you hand - that'll give you a good indication of how much coating is on there - some fabrics actually 'marble' where the creases are, so you can tell if you are being told a fabric has no coating and then go and decide for yourself!

Some fabrics have a Ripstop weave incorporated into them. It's not so good if it determines how the fabric ages and if it frays excessively along the fibres - you can have too much of a good thing. Finally, the construction of a woven fabric has to lend itself towards the Aspect Ratio of a sail. High aspect ratios sails are tall and thin and the loads run closer together up the Luff and Leach edges.

Low Aspect Sails long footed with a shorter hoist typically warrant a more 'balanced' construction and a more evenly spread construction. For this reason a lot of fabric ranges are design to be the best they can be in all applications - and the Sailmaker is left to orientate the panel's angle in the sail to suit the fabric and gain the best performance.

Having now mentioned the concept of sail panel orientation, it is possible to align how to get to stock market neopets Fill fibres which we know are the 'straightest' fibres within the weave, with the principle Leech loads, and it means that the loads along the Foot are then catered for by the other main fibre direction the Warp.

If the Fabric has a good bias stability, then this should make a good sail configuration and it's called a Cross-Cut layout. The material is used very efficiently like this and the panel width typically around 1. The other common method there are others - but this covers most modern sails of panel layout is Radial cutting and Bi-Radials radiate from the Two, Head and Clew corners, hence the name 'Bi-Radial' The idea here being that the Warp Long fibres are laid in the direction of the loads in longer and thinner panels that are all fanning out from each corner.

Technically, this is correct, however, we also know that the woven fabrics are narrow in weave width typically 1. The drawback here is that of the two fibres the Warp is typically smaller, so that it can wrap around the Fill fibre tightly to get that all-important weave stability.

So if we load this Warp fibre up heavily it will then naturally want to straighten out and eventually will give us corrugations from the corners rather than than strong smooth sails.

One other problem for Radial sails is that when we come to cut the panels out of the rolled cloth we use a computer and 'nest' them in together like Tetris! Better still, if you are set on a Radial layout, use a Strong Warped Radial fabric, such as Hydra Net Radial, or just forget about wovens and use a. Laminates were invented as bermudan style return put option way to avoid the bias instability of woven cloth sailcloth and also to avoid the Warp 'crimp' bending that comes with 'Shedding and Packing' the weave.

With Laminates, instead of coating and impregnating the weave with resin, the early idea was to simply laminate bond one or more sheets of Mylar film onto a side and achieve the same result. Quickly it was identified that the strength coming from the weave could be dramatically improved if it wasn't woven and if the fibres giving the fabric it's strength were actually laid straight and so 'scrims' were created, holding the fibres in a grid you can usually see those easily and they give away the fabric as a laminate construction.

The next 'Eureka' moment was that you could make Laminates even stronger and lighter and thus faster in sails, by using a fibre that is a lot stronger than Polyester! This opens up a whole new subject - so here let us suffice to say that most laminates used for racing are made with High Modulus fibre Scrims, such as Kevlar and Carbon fibre, or Pentex which is a 'posh' Polyester.

And the determinate factor is usually cost. Laminates have the simple drawback that they don't stand best penny stock reviews flex fatigue that sails suffer as well as woven materials - so going full circle they have a better 'performance life', but a far shorter 'terminal lifespan' and they also suffer from mildew where the signal feeds binary options generate a perfect environment for Mildew spores to grow.

Mould grows on things and inside too if it can get there so unfortunately even new sails can quickly develop Mildew marks from airborn dirt and polutants and there is precious little that can be done to prevent it. Kemp Sails recommend if you are thinking about laminates, that you ask yourself if you are a frequent club racing sailor, or if the sailcloth shape performance is that 'critical' for you.

If you are concerned that laminates won't live up to your expectations of longevity, or that you want to cross seas and oceans - Or more likely, your boat budget simply won't stand replacing the laminates when they are in great shape still but now have holes worn all over them Do not fear - the top spec Hy-Brid wovens are superb and they have come along way in the last few years.

This was Kemp Sail's Guide to Choosing Sailcloth Fabric and we haven't covered every aspect or angle - because as you can now appreciate, it's quite a complex subject. But you will hopefully have gained an insight into what to look for and why we may have suggested fish market cafe stockton ca material that we unearned revenue cash flow statement indirect method. Ultimately, we need to lancashire learning and skills council at the sail you need, the boat you have and the sailing aspirations you are planning for - then its time to call us, or come and see us for that chat!

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It is many years since Kemp Sails first introduced the Packaway mainsail stacking system. Proof of its success can be seen in any marina in the country, with many manufacturers emulating the principle. Forex prediction svm can be purchased as a complete system including a sail, or retro-fitted to an existing sail.

Easier to use and handle than a Snuffer, it also makes the sail far smaller to store when not in use. For further information email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. These sails are often called Code Zero's - but Kemp Sails call them Ultra Light Genoa or ULG'sas a Code Zero is actually a Racing Sail - see Below.

Using a Continous Line Furler as described above a Genoa shaped sail can also be furled away easily. These are often refered to as Code Zero's - but a Code Zero is actually a racing sail, so for Cruising we call such sails ULG's.

In fact many normally larger headsailed boats have scaled down there Genoas too. There comes a time though when a long Fetch in light wind is a tighter angle thanis comfortable with a Cruising Chute or Assymetric and What you really need is a Big Genoa again! Made in a lightweight Dacron not Nylon which stretches the sail can be used in light winds on closer angles and also as a secondary 'poled out' Headsail - for Twin Headsail downwind sailing.

At Kemp Sails, we take pride in building mainsails which bermudan style return put option exactly as they should.

That means ensuring accurate measurements, selecting the most appropriate cloth and panel layout, and taking care over every detail of the design and construction.

We also need to know about your rig, to make sure we incorporate the right amount of luff curve to match the bend in your mast - a particularly important consideration with fractional rigs. Here are some of the design aspects and features to consider:. For example, a low aspect-ratio sail has gold forex trader different stress patterns to one with a relatively longer luff.

Other types of commonly-used cloth cost less, which may explain why some quotations are lower than ours. Up to the size where a bolt rope creates too much friction, you have a choice - a rope for optimum performance, or sliders for easy handling. And at the outer end of the boom, we leave the last few feet of the sail loose-footed, so you can loop the reefing lines between the boom and sail.

See opposite for more detail of both these features. Two-ply batten pockets ensure no part of the batten is in direct contact with a load-bearing part of the sail. Tapered, glassfibre battens in Velcro-fastened pockets are standard on our Racing, Performance Cruising and Cruisemaster sails. The following features are either standard, or available as an option, with most of our mainsails:. Hooking on is quick and easy, so you spend minimal time on deck. One of the most crucial elements in a neat reef is having the leech lines in the right place on the boom.

Our solution is to remove the bolt rope from the last few feet ahead of the clew slider, so you can pass the leech lines under the foot and secure them around the boom. Another example of simple, sensible solutions from Kemp.

We try to offer a consistent level of quailty - with a varying degrees of features and upgrades thereafter, to suit your sailing aspirations and your budget. If you want something different then please just ask us If you want no-nonsense, straightforward cruising sails without all the bells and whistles, our Super Cruise range is the perfect choice.

We incorporate all the features you're ever likely to need for coastal cruising - and, should you take part in the occasional club race, you'll be surprised at the difference a new suit of sails can make.

Spinnaker or Cruising Chute? Compared with other types of rig, the modern bermudan sail plan is highly efficient to windward. Downwind, though, it's a different story - and that's where spinnakers and cruising chutes come in. Not so long ago, lightweight downwind sails were regarded by many cruising sailors as the exclusive preserve of the racing fraternity, who employed vast crews to tussle with acres of unruly spinnaker nylon.

But the reality is now very different. In the same way that upwind sailing has been made less strenuous by the increasing popularity of selftacking jibs, fully-battened mainsails and cockpit-controlled reefing systems, developments with spinnakers and cruising chutes have resulted in more stable, easily-managed sails which can be comfortably handled by smaller crews. For optimum efficiency, you need a spinnaker whose tack is projected from the end of a pole to bring it out from behind the mainsail on a broad reach or run.

The drawback is that, since the sail is larger than a cruising chute and only firmly attached at one corner the headit needs more care in hoisting, trimming and dowsing.

A cruising chute, on the other hand, is smaller and easier to manage, but less efficient as the wind comes further astern. The solution we often suggest is to have one of each: Not only can the chute be tacked to the stemhead when cruising but, flown from the pole as an asymmetric spinnaker, it will double as a highly effective reaching kite in breezy conditions.

Please note, the layouts are artistic impressions and may differ slightly from the actual finished sail panel layout. Alternatively, download our own "Kemp Sails Spinnaker Layout Sheet", from the "Measurement Forms" area on this website, and you can print and colour the sails yourself. No matter how experienced you are in handling spinnakers or cruising chutes, the combination of large sails, fresh winds and small crews sometimes calls for some extra help.

This is where the snuffer comes in - a nylon sock which pulls down over your spinnaker and turns it in to a long sausage, with the head at the top and the tack and clew at the bottom. When you want to use the spinnaker, you start by hoisting the snuffer to the masthead with the sail bundled up inside. The spinnaker will only start to fill when you pull the snuffer up from the bottom using its own internal halyard - so you can make sure everything's totally under control before any wind gets into the sail.

When you've finished spinnakering, you pull the snuffer down again and lower everything back on deck. PX Black Sailcloth in Use: It is stronger, has a higher strength to weight ratio than steel, and has a modulus that is five times greater than PET, and about twice as high as PEN.

Kevlar, along with other aramid fibers, have poor UV resistance Kevlar loses strength roughly twice as quickly in sunlight as PET and rapid loss of strength with flexing, folding and flogging. Minimal flogging and careful handling can greatly extend the life of a Kevlar sail. Twaron has a slightly lower modulus strength than Kevlar 29 but a slightly higher resistance to flex fatigue. X-Tech Performance BLACK Aramid. Carbon Fibre is a high modulus synthetic fiber made from carbon atoms.

It is largely unaffected by UV but can be very brittle as it becomes more 'refined'. Internal Taffteas don't add the chafe resistance in the same way that external taffetas do, but they soak up less water, so they have other advantages.

This way, you'll keep the family happy and have a 'secret weapon' on the race course! The most economical design of cruising chute small boats only. Ideal for enhancing your offwind performance in light to moderate winds at minimal cost.

We supply different types of bag according to your preference - a round one for attaching to the pulpit, or a rectangular sidelaunching bag. Deeper sailing angles can be achived by dropping the Mainsail or Goose-winging the Chute If you are going to then don't forget to put a preventer on the Mainsail!

To drop the sail shorthanded and without a sock it is best to trip the Snap Shackle on the Tack and keep the Clew sheeted on. This way you can ease the haylard down and gather the sail downwards by working up the Leech and dropping it into the companionway. On most cruising boats over about 22ft then using a Snuffer makes this operation simpler. Alternatively, download our own " default Kemp Sails Spinnaker Layout Sheet 1.

Home Why Buy From Kemp Sails? Cruising Sails Racing Sails Radial Sails. Shade Sails Webshop Shade Sails Gallery. Spinnakers Cruising Chutes Furling Downwind Sails Asymmetric Spinnakers Gennakers. Sail Care Rigging Dealers Links. Fully-battened Mainsails Over the past 10 years or so, fullybattened mainsails have become ever more popular. In fact many sailors now automatically assume they're the best choice - but are they?

Adding Battens Adding Short Leech Battens to an In-Mast Furling Mainsail, allows us to support a straighter Leech profile. The reasons for this are simple — and two fold: The Operation of In-Mast Furling Mainsails Selden's Linedrive operated Furling masts have asymmetric tensioned luffspars.

For increasing sail area from a reefed size to less reefed, a different technique is required. It's also the one which often poses the biggest question: Choosing Sail Fabrics Kemp Sail's Guide to Choosing Sailcloth Fabric Choosing the right fabric in the first place is probably the most important decision in getting the best from your sails.

Who makes Sail fabric? So, what are the main types of fabric? For most modern cruising yachts there are essentially two categories of sail fabrics: Laminate or Woven Sailcloth? What is Woven Sailcloth? There are four principle operations: Warp Fibres are pulled alternately up and down which is called 'shedding', i. Heat Setting which is essentially shrinking it, by passing it between two super-heated rollers.

By Coating or Impregnating it with a resin, to 'glue' all the fibres in place. How does the Sail Aspect Ratio affect the choice of fabric? Better still, if you are set on a Radial layout, use a Strong Warped Radial fabric, such as Hydra Net Radial, or just forget about wovens and use a Laminate Sailcloth Laminates were invented as a way to avoid the bias instability of woven cloth sailcloth and also to avoid the Warp 'crimp' bending that comes with 'Shedding and Packing' the weave.

Hy-Brid woven fabrics Do not fear - the top spec Hy-Brid wovens are superb and they have come along way in the last few years. Main Sails At Kemp Sails, we take pride in building mainsails which perform exactly as they should.

Here are some of the design aspects and features to consider: Bolt ropes or luff sliders Up to the size where a bolt rope creates too much friction, you have a choice - a rope for optimum performance, or sliders for easy handling. Battens Two-ply batten pockets ensure no part of the batten is in direct contact with a load-bearing part of the sail.

MAINSAILS The following features are either standard, or available as an option, with most of our mainsails: Tell-tails Indicate whether the wind is flowing cleanly off the leech. Camber lines Make it easy to see the depth and shape of the sail. Luff cunningham Allows you to tension the luff in stronger winds, pulling the draft forward and opening the leech.

Leech flattener Lifts the boom and flattens the lower section of the sail in heavier conditions. Loose foot at the clew One of the most crucial elements in a neat reef is having the leech lines in the right place on the boom.

Cruising Sails The Kemp Sails Range of Specifications We try to offer a consistent level of quailty - with a varying degrees of features and upgrades thereafter, to suit your sailing aspirations and your budget. Supercruise If you want no-nonsense, straightforward cruising sails without all the bells and whistles, our Super Cruise range is the perfect choice. Power Main The popularity of Fully-Battened mainsails is well known and this subject has been extensively covered by the Yachting Press.

However, these glowing reports tend to be biased towards more modern yachts with new mast designs, with no reference being made to the vast majority of sailors who own older style yachts. Downwind Sails Spinnaker or Cruising Chute? Just use on our KEMP SPINNAKER WIZARD link below: Please note, the layouts are artistic impressions and may differ slightly from the actual finished sail panel layout CLICK HERE to use the Kemp Sails Spinnaker Wizard Designer Alternatively, download our own "Kemp Sails Spinnaker Layout Sheet", from the "Measurement Forms" area on this website, and you can print and colour the sails yourself.

For Furling Downwind Sails see the dedicated page Snuffers No matter how experienced you are in handling spinnakers or cruising chutes, the combination of large sails, fresh winds and small crews sometimes calls for some extra help.

Racing Sails Kemp's radial cut laminate racing sails can be made in a variety of fabrics and fibre types, depending upon your sailing program, your yacht and your budget.

Cruising Chutes Compared with other types of rig, the modern bermudan sail plan is highly efficient to windward. Cruising Chute Radial Head The most economical design of cruising chute small boats only.

Cruising Chute Full Radial The No. Flying Cruising Chutes If you've been put off spinnakers by witnessing or experiencing wraps, broaches and assorted mishaps, take heart. Please note, the layouts are artistic impressions and may differ slightly from the actual finished sail panel layout CLICK HERE to use the Kemp Sails Spinnaker Wizard Designer Alternatively, download our own " default Kemp Sails Spinnaker Layout Sheet 1.

Most are still made this way - and for good reason: Built by Inch Sitemap.